The Peaceful Invasion: Us, Them, and Those in Between

Luigi Barzini’s The Italians opens with a chapter dedicated to Italy’s foreign visitors, from those who land on the peninsula knowing precisely what they wish to do, see, and taste, and who waste no time setting about the business of experiencing Italy with tireless pragmatism,…

Read More

Piazza dei Ciompi: A (Sort of) Homecoming

I have been a contented country mouse for the better part of my 16 years in Italy, tucked snugly away in the ultimate sleepy Tuscan village where fresh air, quiet nights and friendly smiles from passers-by are the norm. Small-town gossip and the molasses-slow arrival…

Read More

Alla Gricia: A Sauce With Many Stories

Alla gricia, considered by many the antecedent to all’amatriciana and alla carbonara, is a pasta sauce from Lazio made with three ingredients: guanciale, pecorino romano, and black pepper. Get your hands on quality versions of these items, and you can’t go wrong. The recipe follows…

Read More